Sunday, 3 May 2009

Numero Siete - Mindo, Baños, Ibarra and Otavalo

Our first trip outside of Quito was to Mindo, a small town in the diminishing cloud forest of Ecuador. The journey there was breathtaking with its amazing folds of dense forest and the awe-inspiring drops the bus driver delighted in flirting with. We were not so delighted. The town itself was sweet, though we got quite majorly lost on our excursion to the famous butterfly garden. Very sweaty walk. We saw a great deal of the cloud forest and the tumbling Mindo river. We had always suffered under the misconception that butterflies are beautiful, delicate creatures. We were misinformed. They are gross. We did coax a couple onto our hands but the majority we were happy to leave alone. However, it was amazing to see such an array of colour and wildlife. The food was fab but had to wait about HALF A DAY for the coffee so the tip was minimal at the end. We headed back out into sweltering heat to cross the Rio Mindo and view more of the cloud forest canopy. Shockingly green but filled with the screams of zip-wire users. We weren´t tempted. After a long day we caught the bus back to Quito on which we heard, whilst eavesdropping, that one girl had had $700 stolen from her on a bus. We were unable to see why she would have that much on her in the first place so we are trying to stay positive by saying that we would have a little more common sense.

Our second journey outside of Quito was to Baños, a town overshadowed by an active volcano and famed for its waterfalls and hot baths. Both were lovely, though their downfalls were the painful bicycle seats on the way to the waterfalls and the old men at the baths. The hostel, recommended by Caroline and Lonely Planet, was a great place to stay. Filled with funky people such as the topless Austrian guy and tiny-shorts man who probably wasn´t expecting two girls to be standing in the hall way as he scampered into the shower. Great rooftop terrace where Ang taught Geo how to play chess, because we´re just that cool. The first day we took a voluntary (still can´t believe this) hike up 654 steps and several mud walkways to see the Virgen de Santa Agua statue. The statue wasn´t as impressive as the views which were astounding. The huge Pailon del Diablo waterfall besides the Indiana Jones-esque bridge was an impressive sight to witness, especially since we cycled for half a day to get there. We enjoyed our first Pilsener, the Ecuadorian beer, after our sweaty walk back up from the waterfall. Not so Indiana Jones-esque. He´s too fit to sweat. We also took a quick spin round the block in a buggy, Geo driving and Ang holding on for dear life (´use the brake Geo, the brake!!!´). An exciting few days.

Ibarra. This is going to be short and sweet. We arrived, chilled in the park, ate famous Helado de paila (icecream), met crazy drunken Ecuadorian men and caught the bus back. Relaxing day.

Otavalo was this weekend´s trip. We arrived early on Saturday morning for the biggest artisan fair in Ecuador. It was difficult to resist the temptation to buy more than we needed/could afford/had room for in our bags. Basically we couldn´t buy much. A few purchases were made but cannot disclose this due to certain persons who might read this. Ang has determined to return with her rich husband (whose name will apparently begin with a ´Y´. Who knew?) to buy some of the goods which included panpipes, beautiful jewellery, bags and all sorts of other things. We caught a bus to Cotocachi and then a taxi to Lake Cuicocha, a volcanic crater lake. We took a boat ride out onto the lake, but despite Ang´s predictions we did not capsize, die in an eruption or get attacked by a puma from one of the islands in the middle. After our free Canelazo it began to pour so we went up to the sheltered rooftop to enjoy the view before catching a taxi and bus back to Otavalo. The hostel was quite an experience! Not sure we enjoyed being the only residents in such a creepy, horror movie type place. On the upside we had the rooftop to ourselves to watch the fireworks which was great. After spending so much on taxis we decided to bypass nutrition and spend less than $1 on bread and jam. Filling but not that healthy we think. Otavalo was a really interesting place, especially with all the friendly indigenous people in all their traditional dress. Great weekend and we´re looking forward to meeting the May trek group tomorrow! Hopefully we won´t leave it too long before the next update! Ciao

Numero seis - Wimpishness and Jesus (not in any way linked Rio, we wouldn´t insult your man)

After spending three weeks in Quito we´ve seen a fair bit of the city. Namely Churches. The Historic centre is filled with beautiful buildings such as The Compañia de Jesus, the most ornate church in Ecuador which is basically just gold, and the Basilica. The latter was quite an experience for the two of us since, for some unknown reason, we decided to actually pay to climb to the top. This, may we remind you, is the tallest building in Quito and not one to be trifled with. The ascent involved treacherous ladders over nothing but air, walking a rickety wooden plank above the heights of the nave and contending with cheeky Ecuadorian raggamuffins who thought it would be a laugh to stamp on the floor of the clock tower and ring the bells. Geo was not amused. Ang was greatly amused when Geo had to descend the ladders by crawling on the floor over to them and inching her backside over the edge until her feet found purchase on the rungs. There is photographic evidence. Incredible views over Quito though, especially of the Virgin of Quito. This statue we later visited with Lupe and Mauricio at night to fully enjoy the panoramic views of the city from her hill. The statue itself is striking but impossible to take a photo of at night!

Quito itself is chockablock with heavily armed squads of riot police (should we be worried?) who just like to show off their guns (not those guns Geo), pesty shoeshine boys who don´t seem to understand that flipflops and suede trainers cannot be shined, monsoons (bring your waterproofs, they really attract the men), pretty plazas and the lingering smell of urine (it seems to be perminently ingrained in the trees up our street). We´ve tried some of the local delicacies such as empanadas de verde, espumilla (no Ang, not espoudrio) and canelazo which was super tasty. Lunches here are generally cheap almuerzos which consist of practically anything for $2. Ecuador has gazillions of unknown fruits such as Guanabana, Taxo, Tuna, Ovo and many more which were interesting to try. We had a look around an fascinating but creepy manakin filled museum, saw more churches than you could shake a tail at, a monastery and a convent (to Ang´s disappointment the monks could not be dissuaded from their vows of chastity), saw the art museum and had a stroll up and down the Calle de Ronda, the oldest street in Quito which housed many famous artists, musicians, writers - basically the type Ang would fancy, you get the drift. Geo adds in Lame-Keats-like people. Ang is no longer talking to her.

We also went to view the Presidential elections in progress. More impressive men with big guns (both kinds. Ron Burgundy would be jealous). It was interesting to learn that voting is compulsory here for everyone over 16, and to see how it all worked. We were struck by just how rigidly organised it all was. All in all, an interesting glimpse of political Ecuador.

Geo is determined to add in about the drunken bus man. He was hilarious. Surely most men would pick up the ´not-interested´signals when we said we didn´t understand a single word of Spanish and kept moving from one end of the bus to the other. But no, he seemed to think we couldn´t resist the waggling eyebrows and lips-licking since he followed us on our quest for freedom around the bus. The other passengers seemed to find it rather amusing. Apart from the granny Ang sat on. Yes, that was this journey. So really a bus ride we couldn´t wait to get off.

Despite having a great time here, we´re extremely excited about moving off to explore other parts of Ecuador and South America.

Numero cinco - Quito and bodily fluids

How to summarise Quito??? We´ll start with our host family, who are lovely. And very tolerant of Ang´s poor Spanish skills. Mauricio and Lupe Toro welcomed us in with the only Spanish Ang knew - ´Mi casa es su casa´ - or some variation. Their home is situated in the North of Quito and it´s a great little house. They have two children, Alex (a girl) and Mauri (most definitely a boy in Ang´s opinion...definitely. She did see him coming out the bathroom after his shower. Geo says get a room. Ang would love to. We also met his lovely, pretty, clever, funny girlfriend. Damn.) and more importantly a dog named Pooky who will lick anything. So far our language difference hasn´t been too much of a barrier as Geo´s Spanish skills prevail. Well done Signor Gomez. A couple of embarrassing questions have arisen such as ´haven´t you ever had a latino boyfriend?´ and ´do you prefer English boys or Ecuadorian boys?´ which we dealt with as best we could in garbled Spanish (on Ang´s part) or Ang, under the impression that they didn´t know any English whatsoever´leant over to Geo after they had told us about their last resident who had hated being in photos to ask ´Was she ugly?´. When Lupe exclaimed ´oogly?´ and burst out laughing, Ang learnt that they did know a little English afterall.

The house is an extremely useful place from which to get to the school we were volunteering at, once you learn how the buses work in Quito of course. They are pretty crazy. Ang actually sat on someone´s lap. She was a granny. Not the fit Ecuadorian she was hoping for. The school was called ´Camp Hope´and was a school for 130 children, both disabled and non-disabled. Geo was with a class of 5 children between 8 and 16, and Ang was with a class of 9 students between 12 and 35. Both classes were for disabled students which made it tough but rewarding. Most of the time was spent wiping bodily fluids off of every surface, including ourselves, which we became used to disturbingly quickly. We both spent time in the classrooms with the students and outside also when taking them for physical therapy on horseback. The hardest part was lunch which meant mashing up food so that they could swallow it and sometimes, for Geo, and always, for Ang, spoon-feeding them. This made it extremely difficult to eat the same food ourselves only moments later, but our tight budget made it necessary. Geo spent a day with a different group of disabled children when her teacher didn´t show one morning, and also some time with the 3-year old non-disabled class when their teacher was otherwise occupied. Ang spent a large amount of time drawing giant bears and putting glitter on random objects while Geo became the master of puzzles. Low points were for Geo, singing ´Woof Woof Woof´ with a dog puppet on her hand during music class and, for Ang, dealing with Pato´s ´Poo explosion´which the cleaner refused to go anywhere near. We did have a great two weeks with them though, since they are very affectionate and fun to work with. We were given a great farewell from the younger kids who sang the Barney the Dinosaur song in Spanish and English for us, and we were given gifts made by the children. Very sweet. Even when Wellington and Pato were too preoccupied with puzzles and poster edges to actually partake in the ceremony. We gave them some gifts in return, puzzles and colouring pencils. A good two weeks.

Numero cuatro - Live Bait and smokin´ gator!

Sooooo....it´s been awhile....but we´re back! And still alive which we know you´ll be happy to hear! We left you, faithful (we hope still) followers, in Kissimmee where we had a ball of a time and swiftly moved on to Miami where we basically RAVED for the weekend. Slightly embarrassing moment when Ang broke an ornament within 2 minutes of being there, but think we breezed over that okay. It was nice to see (for Ang to meet) Sam, Terri, Will and co. and we managed to snatch a little more time by the pool whilst being sprayed with water from the lovely Lucy (don´t worry, she´s a dog).

That night we had some crazy fun watching a bunch of middle-aged drunks dancing the night away at Dino´s Game Fest, that famous festival. The Band, Live Bait, which we are now officially groupies of, was fantastic. Especially when they played Sweet Home Alabama right after Ang said ´I would love it if they played Sweet Home Alabama´. Amazing. We even had a song dedicated to us ´English friends´. What´s more we were able to try the sumptuous delights of Gator and Buffalo (not Bison Geo, they´re endangered. You will be arrested) We were cornered by a drunken Greek/Englishman who came up with some interesting similes such as ´like a submarine on ice´ and ´a racoon in headlights´. There was something about a baboon´s testicles linked with some fruit and elephants eating them but we´ve blocked that one out of our memory. Scarred for life. Unfortunately he had a really nice identical twin but we had to avoid both for the rest of the night because there was no way of telling which would shake your hand and which would try and sit on your lap. We´ve never been so insulted and entertained at the same time. Drunken dancing man also gave us some laughs, and there are pictures to prove JUST how ridiculous his dancing was - like he´d broken his toes and was tiptoeing around a puddle of urine. We had a boogie ourselves and our slick moves blew them all away of course. When we were the last to leave in the early hours and helping the band to pack up, we knew our groupie status was confirmed.

Next morning we had a lovely Easter brunch, followed by a not so lovely hired car journey to the airport since the driver, who had been to South America several times, decided to give us his life story. This mainly consisted of being shot at twice, seeing two car bombs, being in a protest, being bitten by a scorpion, seeing many deadly poisonous creatures and much more besides. All in South America of course. We seriously considered jumping out the car into the face of oncoming traffic rather than face 3 months of fear, however our immense courage prevailed...being British.

When we reached the airport there was a moment´s panic when the scary lady asked Ang to present her Yellow Fever certificate and all Ang could reply was ´we were meant to bring those?´ Luckily we were allowed to fly into Ecuador without one and Mummy and Daddy Ball came to the rescue by sending it out later to avoid any future panics.

Arrival in Quito was safe, but that´s for the next post! Coming soon to a blog near you....

Friday, 10 April 2009

Numero Tres - Medieval Knights and the Sunshine State!

Well, hello all four of our faithful followers! We are on the brink of leaving the Ball's fantastic house in Kissimmee! :( Getting ready to move on to Miami and then Ecuador :) It has been a chilled few days in Kissimmee, apart from Ang losing her ID and bank card (she was saved by Geo's eagle eye sight), and burnt behinds (Ang again).

The main news is that we have both decided to elope with a knight on the back of their noble steeds! After a fantastic night at Medieval Times (Geo has been converted into their biggest fan), where Ang begged (much to Geo's embarrassment) SHE LIES!!!!! THEY WERE ALL OVER ME for a rose and got one (thanks to Geo's help), we both agreed that knights were a ok! We managed to snap a few hundred pictures of them (cross reference with our facebook pages), and even got in a few of them ourselves.

Apart from that, we have bonded with a few guys in Blockbusters, watched Twilight (could Ang be more obsessed with Robert Pattinson?), and felt extremely shocked when Ang went to buy a magazine with his interview in, only to find the pages ripped out by some crazy Twilight fans! She wishes she had got in there first!

We have had a strenuous tennis match, some extreme sunbathing and also carried hefty amounts of shopping back from Target and Publix. On the other hand, we have enjoyed the American lifestyle too, with a considerable amount of homemade Hershey's chocolate brownies and Ang being defeated by a chocolate milkshake from Denny's - it was shameful!!!

We have had a few people stop us because of our accents, asking where we were from. We were even asked if we were from 'up north' when we were out in shorts on a 'cold' day, to which we proudly replied, 'No, we're British!'. People seem to think British means people wearing crazily inappropriate hot weather clothes for a tiny patch of rain.

It has been a great week in Kissimmee, and we cannot wait to get to Miami, and then head off to Ecuador! Hopefully, we'll be able to get to an internet cafe to write again soon!

Hasta luego!

Tuesday, 31 March 2009

U.S. of A - Numero dos

What can we say - made it with bare minimum of mishaps. Well....apart from Ang thwacking her head on the overhead compartment, trying to pass it off with a blase 'oops' as a whole queue of tired, impatient travellers stood there watching her and waiting for her to go, and suffering the ridicule of Geo who felt it was important not to let the moment pass without laughing uproariously, which in turn allowed the waiting passengers to think it was okay to snigger slightly. Ang - not impressed. And so dazed that she subsequently threw her water bottle across the tunnel and had to fetch it, shamefaced, while Geo laughed some more from the sidelines.

But it's been great so far. As soon as we landed we were taken to see a few sights around Washington including the Jefferson memorial set against the backdrop of the blossoming cherry trees! Lovely.

We've also seen a nice looking Amish blacksmith by the name of Toby who we would happily become Amish wives for. Despite the beard.

We visited Geo's old haunts and picked up a few (translate - lots) of shark teeth along the way after breaking into the private beach at Windward Key.

Ang attempted to break into a church, like her British forebearers (in David's words, as well as every other American's) but was foiled by her own morals (translate - cowardice).

We ate oysters and rockfish stuffed with blue crab meat (I hope you are impressed Ball parents! And jealous Chapman parents) and hopefully we will be receiving a care package filled with American goodies from the friendly waitress who kept asking Ang to talk with her 'British Accent' while she had her mouth stuffed with fish and hushpuppies.

Saw Ang's first ever American Lax game - great fun. Unfortunately they lost but the atmosphere was FANtastic. And the hot chocolate very tasty (most important point!). Should remind any British tourists planning to go to America that it is a BATHROOM, not a LOO. Take the advice or you will end up looking like a ninny (Ang).

Overall a great few days to start off the trip and a fantastic trip down memory lane for Geo! Photos to come. We've booked our train to Kissimmee for Thursday so tans galore (insert ironic laughter...for Geo....Ang's fit...you better believe it...and this is Geo writing).

Catch ya on the flipside! (still Geo writing... but Ang's making me put it, surprise, surprise)

xxx

Wednesday, 25 March 2009

Numero Uno

SPIDER SIGHTINGS = 1, and we haven't even left Yeovil yet (the one in the cupboard under the stairs - I TOLD you there was one under there Dad!)

Fantastic reunion, couldn't even walk back to the house with the bags so GREAT START!!! Bus lady was lovely though - very friendly. Must admit, Geo was carrying the heavy bag, though that bagel Ang had to carry was pretty hefty.

Having caught up after five months apart from eachother, our first stop was, of course, the Abbey Friar. Geo was shocked to see the board had changed in her absence bu cheesy chips all the way! Said goodbye to Anna (and Gabby). A good first day. Pity Ang has to return tomorrow for a shift =(

Adios amigos!